If you plan on installing your product(s) or are using a contractor to carry out this on your behalf, we ask that you take a moment to understand the process involved and the type of tools required.
To ensure the life span and performance of your product(s) is not compromised, the correct installation is critical and should not be overlooked. Follow our guidelines and if you are in any doubt then please do not hesitate in giving us a call and we will be happy to talk you through it.
1. Determine where the bollard is to be situated and ensure the correct placement and alignment for the purpose in hand.
2. Check for utilities and perform a visual inspection for any obvious obstructions. Scanning the location for live cables and underground services with a cable avoidance scanner will be necessary. Once you have identified where you will be locating the bollard mark out the area to be excavated.
3. Excavate a surface cube in the substrate according to the bollards specification. A normal surface cube measuring 300 mm x 300 mm is suitable for any standard telescopic with an in ground depth of up to 800 mm. The larger spec anti ram raid telescopic bollards will need a cube measuring approx 400 mm x 400 mm with a depth allowance of up to 1250 mm.
4. For a concrete or tarmac surface a stone cutting saw with an appropriate diamond blade will need to be used to cut out your surface cube.For block paving consider the finished install with consideration for your paved surface pattern.The blocks will need to cut around the top of the bollard after installation. If at all possible, try to ensure you align the bollard adjacent to the pattern of your paving.
5. Excavate a hole uniform in shape, down to the full depth of your bollard and allow for an additional stone base of 100 mm of 20 mm stone beneath the outer unit. Whilst excavating the hole, periodically check the depth and allow for the finished level of the top of the bollard to be approx 10 mm above ground level. This is to redirect dirty surface water away from the bollard and prevent surface debris from building up inside the unit. Once you have reached the required depth you are now ready to begin lowering the complete unit into the ground.
6. Place a layer of clean loose 20 mm stone, 100 mm deep into the bottom of the hole to allow for drainage and to act as a platform for the bollard to sit on. Do not place the bollard casing directly onto the soil, as the inner bollard will act as a syringe and will draw up all of the dirt inside the tube as soon as you begin to use the bollard, which will eventually cause you problems and will cause the bollards to fail. Don’t cut any corners, get down to the correct depth for your chosen bollard.
7. Ensure you have located the root cross bar (if one is supplied with your bollard) and that it is fitted into the base of the outer casing. Locate the outer casing of the bollard centrally in the hole and onto the loose stone whilst also ensuring that the very top of this outer casing is sitting 10 mm proud of the existing ground surface level.
8. Raise the inner bollard up from its sleeve and locate it into the upright position. Back-fill some more 20 mm shingle around the base of the outer casing to a depth of about 200 mm to steady the bollard casing. During this initial back-fill, check that the extended inner bollard is sitting vertical to all planes by attaching the magnetic levels to both sides of the bollard.
9. When you are satisfied the inner bollard is vertical and plumb, lower it back into the outer casing and raise it up again to check for it’s smooth operation. Whilst still checking for vertical, gradually back-fill the hole around the outer casing with additional 10 or 20 mm shingle until approx 300 mm from the top of the outer casing. Periodically compact the shingle during this stage of the back-fill with a long stick or temper to ensure the stone is tight around the outer casing.
10. When you are satisfied with the alignment of the outer casing and the inner bollard operates smoothly, fill the remainder of the bored hole around the casing with a good concrete mix ( preferably with a rapid hardening agent or cement) to a medium wet slump. Before the concrete has hardened and set, lower and raise the inner bollard to double check that it is still vertical to all planes. Once you are totally happy then lower the inner bollard back into the outer casing and begin to reinstate your existing surface around the top of the casing to give a tight surface finish around your bollard.
11.The 10 mm allowance above the ground level will now need to be chamfered around the outer casing down to the surface level to leave a smooth slightly sloped finish. Ensure the finish is as smooth as possible so as to allow for good surface water run off and to eliminate any form of trip hazard. Use a concrete / cement dye to match the colour of your surface, rather than leave a white concrete slab around the bollard. Why ruin all your hard work. The detail in the finish does make all the difference to the appearance of your new bollard.
12. Protect any concrete from inclement weather or frost until it has fully cured.The bollard should not be used until the concrete has fully cured, so you should allow at least 24 hours before any vehicles are allowed to drive onto the top of the outer casing.
Follow the instructions for the standard telescopic bollards,and consider the following points:
1. The surface cube to be cut out will need to be increased to approx 400 mm x 400 mm square to allow for the additional excavation to a depth of up to 1250 mm which will depend on your bollards specification. Ram raids bollards are considerably larger and deeper than a standard telescopic bollard and you will need to ensure you will be able to reach down to the depth required, so that you can remove the soil form inside the bored hole. Be prepared for a work out and allow yourself plenty of time.
2. Consideration must also be given to the additional weight of the complete unit when attempting to lower and position the casing it into the excavated hole. You may need assistance. If you are unsure, seek help.
3. Additional material will be needed to back-fill the bored hole as the area around the outer casing will be significantly greater than that of a standard telescopic bollard.
Follow the instructions for the heavy duty telescopic bollards, and consider the following points:
1. Do not install the bollard into ground that is below the water table or ground that is liable to flooding under normal conditions.
2. Do not install the bollard into ground that is sandy as this may affect the performance of your bollard. If you are in any doubt then please give us a call as a lift assisted bollard needs to be installed into a clean bore.
Follow the instructions for the standard telescopic bollards and consider the following points:
1. There is no need to place loose stone into the base of the bollard as it has no operational elements to its design and needs minimal drainage around the base of the bollard. Stand the bollard on a solid concrete or firm foundation and then use a medium slump mix to back-fill around the bollard.
Follow the instructions for the standard telescopic bollards and consider the following points:
1. Place a layer of clean loose 20mm stone, 50 - 100mm deep into the bottom of the hole to allow for drainage.
2. Ensure the ground socket is vertical and level to all planes. Check the socket and ensure no material has entered inside the base socket.
3. Position the bollard into the ground socket to ensure the socket is clear from debris during back-fill and also to check that the bollard is vertical to all sides.
4. Remove and replace the bollard into its socket to check that no obstruction has occurred during back-fill and that the bollard can be locked into the socket and lifts in & out of the socket smoothly.
1. Measure your spacing’s & position the bollard or parking post where you intend to use it.
2. Ensure you have the correct size drill bit for the size of ground fixings you are using.
3. Position the post where you plan to use it & drill a pilot hole through the bollards base plate pre-drilled holes when in the correct position. Once you have drilled the pilot holes, remove the post from the location whilst you now look to drill through the surface in preparation for the ground anchors.
4. Drill the piloted holes to the required depth and diameter of the studs and clean out the hole to ensure all dust is removed from inside the hole.
5. Insert the resin into the applicator gun and attach the tapered nozzle to the tube of resin. Now slowly pump the resin mixture up through and out of the nozzle, discard the first mixture that is dispelled from the nozzle and continue to pump the mixture out until the resin is of a uniform colour and consistency and now eject some of the mixed resin from the applicator onto a piece of card. This will be used as a sample later on. See point 8.
6. Fill the drilled hole slowly with the resin anchor solution to approx 2/3 rds and then insert the stud by slowly turning it down clockwise into the hole. By doing this you will expel any air within the hole which will ensure you have a good base for the resin. Be sure to leave enough of the stud visible out of the ground to allow you to position the posts base plate over the studs & clean away any excess resin from around the studs.
7. Whilst the resin is not cured, you will need to line up the post & ensure that the base plate fixing holes line up correctly with the studs. Before the resin sets, you should now adjust the stud height accordingly. Place a washer and a nut onto each stud and allow for the nut to be flush with the top of the stud when it is fully tightened and finally lower or raise the stud inside the hole to ensure a neat finish. You should look to have the minimal amount of stud protruding above the nut to ensure you leave a nice clean finish once the nuts are tightened onto the studs.
8. Now you need to wait for the resin to cure. Wait a while & test the sample of the resin you previously pumped out onto the card in step 5 and when this is hard you will know the resin in the hole will be almost cured so you can begin to tighten the nuts on the studs. Patience is key here, make sure the resin has cured, as if you tighten the nuts too soon, the stud will begin to rise out of the ground as you tighten the nuts and you will have to start all over again.
9. When the resin solution has fully cured, fully tighten the nuts and dispose of the nozzle on the tube or resin, and ensure the cap is fitted to the nozzle for any future use.